Scale Replica

Scale Model Cars, tanks & Helicopters

About the Panzer III

The Panzer III was the common name of the medium tank that was developed in the 1930s by Germany and used extensively in World War II. The official German designation was Panzerkampfwagen III (abbreviated PzKpfw III). Designed to fight other armoured fighting vehicles and serve alongside the infantry-support Panzer IV.

The Panzer III was used in the campaigns against Poland, France, the Soviet Union and in North Africa. Some were still in use in Normandy and Arnhem in 1944.

By the time of the German invasion of the Soviet Union (Operation Barbarossa), the Panzer III was numerically the most important German tank.

The Ausf :L was introduced at the beginning of 1942 and saw the introduction of 20mm pre-armour and the weight increased to 22.3 tons.
Panzer III Ausf L - Page 1
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Wednesday, 09 December 2009 17:30
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This model of the Panzer III is 1/6th scale and manufactured by Armortek in the UK. (www.armortek.co.uk)

At around 150 lbs and 35.5" long (excluding barrel) and is constructed primarily from steel and aluminum. The model features scale armor thickness and genuine working torsion bar suspension.

Available as a fully machined kit of components, each Panzer III is part of a very limited production run with each model having it's own serial number and certificate of authenticity.

Build Log

This build log will cover the construction of the Armortek Panzer III Ausf L including the installation of 2 x 24v, 160w electric motors that deliver 2.1Nm of torque. This will provides a top speed of around  6 mph. The turret will also turn and the main gun will elevate.  

Today the model arrived from England.

Armortek box 

Here are all the parts laid out.

Armortek Panzer III parts

To give you an idea of size the photo below show the road wheel from a 1/35 scale Panzer III and next to it is the same road wheel of the Armortek Panzer III.

Panzer III road wheel

My general build plan is to do a basic build to make sure everything fits perfectly doing any adjustment as necessary. I will also decide what my first round of modifications/ additions will be to refine and add to the realism of the tank. Then I will disassemble and spray etch primer before starting final assembly.

The first step is to install the brass suspension bushings into the two suspension bars.  I used Loctite 603 bearing fluid to glue the bushings in.

suspension bar and bushings 

and here is the first suspension bar with the bushings in place.

suspension bar with busings installed

 Next you fasten the suspension bar to the floor pan of the tank.  Building this model feels more like building a real tank rather than building a model. 

Panzer III floor with suspension bar

 here is a closeup.

 This is the right hand hull side wall with the four bump stops already fitted.

Taking photographs of this model is certainly more challenging than my other models due to the large size.

Panzer III hull side

 The left hand hull side wall fitted to the floor pan,

Armortek tank

 ...and another view.

Panzer III side

 I have now added the other hull side wall.  If you look closely at the left hand wall front you can see one of the brackets added that will be used to fix the front plates too.

These brackets are added in multiple placed to join the front and pack plates as well as things like the lower front deck.

Panzer III both hull sides

 The next step is to add the two front plates, upper rear plate and the lower deck.

The plates are made of aluminum and the thickness is scale to the thickness of armor on the real Panzer.

The lower deck is made of steel.

front plates

 Below is the hydraulic lift table that I bought to assemble the Panzer III on. It has a 500lb lift capacity.

Work stand

The two front plates, upper rear plate and lower deck are now on.

I will be making my own lower deck plate out of aluminum to replace the one that comes with the kit as the transmission hatches and doors are the wrong size.

On the real Panzer III tank the left hand hatch (view looking from the front) is larger and the right hand one is smaller. 

You may also notice on the side are a some small red circles I have drawn on.  These mark the countersunk holes that will need to be made a bit deeper to make sure that the bolt heads are below the surface of the hull side to allow them to be filled (the real Panzer III's plates are welded not bolted together).

Armortek Panzer III hull with side on

here is a closer view.

hull closeup

This is one of the two drive cases after I have inserted the two bearings (one on the inside) and fixe them in place with Loctite 603.

Panzer III drive case

This is the drive gear that will drive the drive sprocket.

gear shaft

and it inserted into the drive case.

drive case with shaft

This is the view of the drive case from the inside.  Eventually the electric drive motor with drive this gear.

drive case back

This photo shows one of the two idler spigots and brackets.

idler spigot and bracket

Today I stripped the basic tank hull back down, lightly sanded the components, degreased and sprayed with a coat or two of etching primer.

armortek pIII hull components

Once I have finished this for all the basic hull components I will reassemble it. 

The photo below shows some of the hull plates after they have received a coat of etching primer.

Last night the tank commander turned up to inspect the progress 

Horst Learner

 So now that the hull parts have been painted with etching primer it is time to start reassembling.

Below are some of the smaller components after painting and ready to be assembled.

Panzer III components

 A closeup of the two drive cases.  I sprayed these with the bolt inserted in the holes and painted them too.

Panzer III drive case

 Here you can see I have assembled the hull back to where it was. Actually it is a bit further as the idler spigot assembly at the rear has also been assembled.  Getting the tensioner assembled is difficult because of the tension of the spring.  There is no real tricks to getting this done, just patience.

I have assembled the hull with the original lower deck, but as I mentioned earlier, I will be replacing this with a new one that I will make that is more representative of the prototype Panzer III Ausf L.

Hull painted from top

 

Hull from front

 

hull rear

 

spigot

 One thing I noticed when I was reassemblying the hull was that the upper rear plate decended lower than what the build manual shows.

However, this is correct and was an update that is more representative of the prototype.  The manual has not yet caught up with the enhancement.

upper hull plate update